Patterns for felted garments, are they really that simple? Part 1 of 2

Over the past several months I have noted online posting asking about purchasing patterns to make seamless felt garments.  Very good question, but it is like nails on a chalkboard for me.  Here is why: 1) Patterns for felt garments need to consider shrinkage.  2) The majority of feltmakers who want to make a felt garment know little about garment construction.  3) Not everyone on the face of the earth is a perfect model size.  4) most feltmakers want to incorporate way too many techniques in a single garment.  Because this is a two part blog post, I will write today only about 1 & 2.

Every feltmaker lays out wool a bit differently.  Each feltmaker will have a different amount of shrinkage depending on how the wool is laid layout, the wool that is chosen, and the micron count of the fiber.  So the bottom line is that if you use the SAME pattern as your friend, and you both used a similar layout, but different wool or embellishments, the end garment will be a different size!  Yes, this is very true.  The micron count and wool breed makes a difference when making clothing.  Now if you and your friend used the same wool but different wool layouts, the resulting garment will also be different!

Most patterns that are sold for making a felt garment use a 30% shrinkage, that is a concern to me.  What if I don't shrink my wool to 30%?  Or what if I have a 48% shrinkage? What fiber did the pattern maker use?  What if I want to add different embellishments or use fabrics?  How do I know my shrinkage and how do I calculate it?  Before I layout the first wisp of wool, I am already off to a poor start because my shrinkage is different than the pattern I purchased. 

Second point...The majority of feltmakers do not understand garment sizing and construction.   The human body is not a round cylinder that a piece of fabric is wrapped around.  It has numerous curves. In the world of sewing those curves are accommodated via darts, tucks, and shaped seams.  The body shapes are very different from person to person to person.  A person who is average shape but is 5'10 says they wear a large because they are tall.   But the 5'5" person with a very rounded body shape says she is a large because she needs girth.  So  who does the large fit?  If the same large pattern is used on both of these people, it will fit neither!  It will be too short in length on the 5'10" and it will probably close fine in the front if a vest or jacket.  However if out 5'5" round person tries on the same garment, it will be too long, and probably not close in the front.

Do you get the picture?  Purchasing a 'pattern' for making a felt garment is a gamble. There is nothing worse than making an entire garment that in the end does not fit!  You have invested a significant amount of time making the felt and purchased a good amount of materials.  Then again, maybe fit is not important. Unless you are familiar with garment construction and pattern grading, it is risky to purchase a generic pattern.

I am not blogging this information for the sole purpose of selling my eBooks. ( but sales of my eBooks are welcome)  We all have choices about the felt clothing we make.  I have a point of view of taking the time to make samples, measure your shrinkage and THEN make a pattern is the best way to insure a proper fit.
  
More next week when I will show you my actual samples that I use before making a garment.  I will also show you the different patterns that are made from the same set of body measurements.  You will see that I do not use the same pattern to make different garments.  Everything is based on personal measurements, personal shrinkage, and techniques used in construction.

http://www.kathyhaysdesigns.com

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Thanking You and Holiday Sale

  

I want to take a moment and thank the many many folks who have purchased my eBooks this past year.  It was a long process in writing them, but I can be proud of this accomplishment.  I wanted to share my knowledge of garment making and feltmaking to help others create a felt garment that would fit once they completed their work.  There are no real patterns for felt garments, just generic shapes.  Everyone felts a bit differently, everyone uses different fibers and different fabrics.  These factors all effect the final fit.

The holidays are approaching and the shopping season is underway.  The Saturday after Thanksgiving small business shopping day.  It is a day in which you can support your local and online small businesses.  With that concept in mind, I am putting my two eBooks (Seamless Felt Garment 1 -2) on sale for 10% off when you purchase both.

Here is a description of the eBooks:

Make your own seamless felted garment patterns!  In these two eBooks you will learn the process for creating seamless felt clothing.  No more guess work. No more ill fitting garments.  No more wasted materials. 

The intermediate feltmaker will find each eBook contains more than 50 pages of text, graphics and photos. The instructions are clear, step by step and will guide you through the process. These eBooks are like a personal workshop experience while sitting at your work table!  Work at your own pace and in the comfort of your own studio.  No need to travel to workshop locations.  

Make garments for yourself, friends, family or clients that will fit properly.  Worksheets are included to record and perform correct calculations.


Here is the Table of Contents from eBook 1 - Template Pattern and Resist.
Table of Contents
Forward
Chapter 1 Introduction__________________________ 7
Chapter 2 Materials____________________________ 9
Chapter 3 Sample Making ______________________ 10
Chapter 4 Shrinkage __________________________ 14
Chapter 5 How to take Measurements _____________19
Chapter 6 Determining Ease_____________________33
Chapter 7 Making the Template__________________ 35
Chapter 8 Making the Pattern and Resist for A-Line Top or Dress  46
Chapter 9 Conclusion__________________________ 52
About the Author______________________________ 53
Appendix____________________________________ 54

Here is the Table of Contents of eBook2  Making the Garment
Table of Contents
Chapter 1 Introduction_________________________________4
Chapter 2 Making the Garment using Standard Layout_______ 5
Chapter 3 The Reverse Layout _________________________ 21
Chapter 4 Making the Vest_____________________________ 34 
Chapter 5 Finishing the Felt Garment_____________________46
Chapter 6 Additional Garments__________________________47
Chapter 7 Conclusion_________________________________58


You will find clear images that show detail of applying wool and fabrics, a thorough explanation of how to take measurements, a sound explanation of shrinkage and its effects on your garment, and worksheets to help with calculations.  

If you would like to purchase my eBooks at the reduced rate, please visit my site at http://kathyhaysdesigns.com    I will keep the 10% discount until Nov 30.  So give yourself a gift this holiday season!  

It's Fall in Florida

There is something about Fall in Florida that makes you feel alive.  Could it be the temperature is 63 degrees at night and 75 during the day?  Or is it the Gulf breeze that is actually cool instead of hot air.  It is delightful and a great time to get outdoors.

I have been doing some dyeing now that the weather has cooled.  I need small batches of color to inlay into some works.  I also have been Eco printing. This fun activity is getting crazy at times.  A week or so ago I found a different species of Euc in a yard.  I really wanted some of that tree.  I took my business card to the door and offered to trim his tree.  Luckily for me he said 'help yourself''  So I took my nippers and pruned away.  I am so very lucky that all my print materials are less than a mile radius from my house!

I also have been working with some raw fleece.  I am plucking locks from a few fleeces to be used in some garments and accessories.  This is a tedious job, but I don't mind that I can sit at the work table, look out at the lake and enjoy the fresh Fall air.

Even Barney is enjoying the cool breeze, the warm sun and fresh air.

Eco print scarves

Last week I printed several scarves using Eco print technique.  It is so much fun, results are always a surprise!  

The rewards of teaching

            

The rewards of teaching, at least for me is not found in the explanation or contribution to a students arsenal of techniques. Or the joy of watching them open their bundles.  The real joy for me is to see what the students go on to create and how they feel a month after their workshop.

In Sept I taught a basic Eco print workshop.  The students were thrilled and excited with their new found knowledge.  This past week I was able to meet with those who participated to see their samples once dried and pressed.  I was able to speak with them about how they enjoyed learning.  Each an everyone returned for a brief meeting and they were ready to do more.

One student, Arlene printed the following pieces after the workshop.  I love what she created.

I too have done some printing as well.  Below is a raw silk shirt that was printed a few days ago.  I do love wearing this shirt!

The Leaves of Fall

Oh, the joy and excitement when we open bundles!  Some are quiet, some are anxious while others think waiting a few weeks until opening is a good idea.  Then I open mine first, suddenly there is a flurry of activity to gather around for first glimpse.  There are gasp and oooohs and ahhhhs.  Suddenly there is a fever traveling around the table.  One squeal, two squeals, another gasp.  These are the sounds and conversation heard around the table.  A fun afternoon was had by all.

Here if Florida we have many plants, but there are a few that give up such lovely prints.

And of course there is always the strong power of eucalyptus.  Such lovely works by wonderful students.

Summer is past

Wow, the summer has passed quite quickly.  I have not posted here during the summer months, simply too curious.  Yes I have been curious on many fronts.  I am always amazed how one idea or source of curiosity can lead down different paths.

One of my curiosities was with Eco print.  Living here in Florida we have many plants to sample but I chose to stick with my favorite trees and plants.  Most of my sources are within a quick bike ride of less than a mile radius.  I toyed with different combinations of iron water and  iron vinegar solutions.  Each with different concentrations and dilutions.  Some were successes while others were simply failures.  I have used a wide variety of fabrics and continue to play with materials.

I have also been stitching of felt.  I love to make felt and I love to sew.  I can use a machine quite well to make stitches but also hand stitching adds depth to felt.  How can there be so many ideas to explore and so little time to do them all?  I know that is the lament of many textile and fiber artist.

So what about my E Books for making seamless felt garments?  I plan a third installation but will be video based and go through how to design with a custom template.  The  video will not revisit how to make the template and subsequent pattern.  But the third installation will be high emphasis on garment design, how to create those designs to fit you, and inspire.

Discussion will include:
1) directional wool layouts and its effect on design
2) how to create breast circles in garment design for better fit
3) how to add different sleeve and collar types to the basic template
4) how to draft a personal design that is well suited for your body type


The first two eBooks can be purchased at http://www.kathyhaysdesigns.com

As fall arrives I will be teaching felting and eco print classes.  I will be also doing more and more stitching on felt.

Cheers to a wonderful fall!