Patterns for felted garments, are they really that simple? Part 1 of 2

Over the past several months I have noted online posting asking about purchasing patterns to make seamless felt garments.  Very good question, but it is like nails on a chalkboard for me.  Here is why: 1) Patterns for felt garments need to consider shrinkage.  2) The majority of feltmakers who want to make a felt garment know little about garment construction.  3) Not everyone on the face of the earth is a perfect model size.  4) most feltmakers want to incorporate way too many techniques in a single garment.  Because this is a two part blog post, I will write today only about 1 & 2.

Every feltmaker lays out wool a bit differently.  Each feltmaker will have a different amount of shrinkage depending on how the wool is laid layout, the wool that is chosen, and the micron count of the fiber.  So the bottom line is that if you use the SAME pattern as your friend, and you both used a similar layout, but different wool or embellishments, the end garment will be a different size!  Yes, this is very true.  The micron count and wool breed makes a difference when making clothing.  Now if you and your friend used the same wool but different wool layouts, the resulting garment will also be different!

Most patterns that are sold for making a felt garment use a 30% shrinkage, that is a concern to me.  What if I don't shrink my wool to 30%?  Or what if I have a 48% shrinkage? What fiber did the pattern maker use?  What if I want to add different embellishments or use fabrics?  How do I know my shrinkage and how do I calculate it?  Before I layout the first wisp of wool, I am already off to a poor start because my shrinkage is different than the pattern I purchased. 

Second point...The majority of feltmakers do not understand garment sizing and construction.   The human body is not a round cylinder that a piece of fabric is wrapped around.  It has numerous curves. In the world of sewing those curves are accommodated via darts, tucks, and shaped seams.  The body shapes are very different from person to person to person.  A person who is average shape but is 5'10 says they wear a large because they are tall.   But the 5'5" person with a very rounded body shape says she is a large because she needs girth.  So  who does the large fit?  If the same large pattern is used on both of these people, it will fit neither!  It will be too short in length on the 5'10" and it will probably close fine in the front if a vest or jacket.  However if out 5'5" round person tries on the same garment, it will be too long, and probably not close in the front.

Do you get the picture?  Purchasing a 'pattern' for making a felt garment is a gamble. There is nothing worse than making an entire garment that in the end does not fit!  You have invested a significant amount of time making the felt and purchased a good amount of materials.  Then again, maybe fit is not important. Unless you are familiar with garment construction and pattern grading, it is risky to purchase a generic pattern.

I am not blogging this information for the sole purpose of selling my eBooks. ( but sales of my eBooks are welcome)  We all have choices about the felt clothing we make.  I have a point of view of taking the time to make samples, measure your shrinkage and THEN make a pattern is the best way to insure a proper fit.
  
More next week when I will show you my actual samples that I use before making a garment.  I will also show you the different patterns that are made from the same set of body measurements.  You will see that I do not use the same pattern to make different garments.  Everything is based on personal measurements, personal shrinkage, and techniques used in construction.

http://www.kathyhaysdesigns.com

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