Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Patterns for Felted Garments - Part 2

Finally, and I do mean finally I am able to write part 2.  When I look back and see that is was Jan since I last posted, I wonder where time has gone.  I did not mean to take so long to write part 2, it just happened that way.

To recap, I was discussing how purchasing a 'pattern' to make a seamless felt garment was risky.  Understanding how garments are made is a big factor and also understanding shrinkage.  To follow up about shrinkage I have several examples to share.  Each began as a 20" x 20" square, but all result in different sizes.  This could be due to the type of wool I used, the micron count, the fabric or surface decoration and single layer layout or multiple layers.  All of those things effect how a pattern needs to be made.  You simply can't use one pattern, then use different techniques and expect the garment to fit every time.
In the above example 3mm habotai silk was used with a thin one way layout (A), a thin two way layout (B) and a thin layer of wool sandwiched between two layers of 3mm habotai (C)

In the above examples each is made with two layers of wool and same micron.  In (A) only wool is used.  In (B) the same wool was laid out two ways but surface decoration such as yarn and silk habotai for nuno felting.  In sample (C) still the same wool laid out two ways but with silk hankies on the surface.

As you can see each sample is a different size!  If there are different sizes on a small sample, imagine the differences on a full size seamless garment.  Making samples prior to making a full size garment is essential.

Next, not every felter is a perfect figure type that can wear the shapely dresses, plunge necklines or cinched waist.  Consideration should be given to the actual style of garment that a person makes for themselves.  Yes, there are many nice seamless garments that look wonderful on a shapely figure model, but for the most part a simpler design line is most flattering to all figure types.

Finally the use of multiple techniques.  While all feltmakers enjoy different techniques, caution should be exercised when incorporating them into a garment.  All too often textures, colors and techniques are combined into a garment without harmony.  Basically a train wreck!  Simple design lines with good use of color and a single technique create a sophisticated garment.  All one needs to do is look at the major fashion houses/designers and you will see simple lines with good use of color and texture. Felt is a beautiful textile and should be showcased with its color and textures.

To conclude there are two ways to make felt garments.  One way is seamless or to make felt yardage.  I have done it both ways.  I like both methods.  Each method has its pros and cons.  If you purchase a pattern there is a risk in that  you don't know who much ease was applied to that pattern and you don't know what shrinkage was used.  If you are experienced with sewing, pattern drafting and felting you might be successful, but for the most part feltmakers are not. Using the methods that I teach in my e-books works best for those without a lot of garment making skills.

Best to all your making of felt garments with a method that works for you!

http://www.kathyhaysdesigns.com




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